The Burberry check. Simply uttering those three words evokes a powerful image: a distinctive pattern of intersecting beige, black, white, and red lines, synonymous with British heritage, luxury, and timeless style. But the Burberry check is more than just a pattern; it's a cultural phenomenon, a symbol that has evolved and adapted over the decades while retaining its core identity. This article delves into the fascinating history of the Burberry check, its various iterations, and how to navigate the world of Burberry authenticity in a market saturated with imitations. We'll also explore the significance of the Rainbow check and the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, all while providing practical advice on identifying genuine Burberry products.
Burberry Check History: From Functional Fabric to Fashion Icon
The story of the Burberry check begins with Thomas Burberry, the innovative draper who founded the brand in 1856. Burberry's invention of gabardine, a durable, breathable, and waterproof fabric, revolutionized outerwear. Gabardine’s tight weave made it ideal for protecting explorers, adventurers, and soldiers from the unpredictable British weather.
While gabardine was the foundation of Burberry’s success, the check pattern wouldn't appear until much later. Initially, Burberry focused on functionality and practicality. The beige colour of the gabardine was chosen for its camouflage properties, blending in with the natural landscapes of the British countryside.
The Burberry check, originally known as the "Haymarket check," first appeared as a lining for Burberry trench coats in the 1920s. Its understated presence inside the iconic outerwear pieces was a subtle nod to quality and craftsmanship. The pattern featured a distinctive grid of intersecting beige, black, white, and red lines, creating a visually appealing and recognizable design.
The check remained largely hidden for several decades, confined to the linings of coats and other garments. However, its visual appeal didn't go unnoticed. In the 1960s, the Burberry check began to emerge as a standalone design, appearing on scarves, umbrellas, and other accessories. This marked a significant turning point in the history of the pattern, transforming it from a functional element to a fashion statement.
Throughout the late 20th century, the Burberry check gained immense popularity, becoming a status symbol and a must-have item for fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Its association with British heritage, quality, and luxury solidified its position as a timeless classic. The brand leveraged its iconic pattern, incorporating it into a wide range of products, from clothing and accessories to fragrances and homewares.
However, the widespread popularity of the Burberry check also led to its proliferation in the counterfeit market. Cheap imitations flooded the market, diluting the brand's image and undermining its exclusivity. To combat this, Burberry implemented various measures to protect its intellectual property and ensure the authenticity of its products.
The Burberry Nova Check: A Defining Era
The "Nova Check," a variation of the original Haymarket check, became particularly popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s. It featured the same iconic grid pattern but often with a slightly more prominent or bolder execution. The Nova Check became synonymous with the brand during this era, appearing on everything from handbags and wallets to clothing and shoes. The "Burberry Nova Check Shoulder" bag, in particular, became a highly coveted item.
The Nova Check's widespread popularity, however, also contributed to its overexposure. By the mid-2000s, the pattern had become associated with "chav" culture in the UK, a term used to describe a working-class subculture often associated with tracksuits and sportswear. This association tarnished the brand's image and led to a period of decline in the late 2000s.
The Rainbow Check: A Modern Reimagining
In 2018, under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, Burberry introduced the "Rainbow check," a colourful reimagination of the iconic pattern. This bold and inclusive design incorporated the colours of the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, celebrating diversity and inclusivity.
The Rainbow check was a significant departure from the traditional Burberry aesthetic, signaling a new era for the brand. It reflected Tisci's commitment to inclusivity and his desire to modernize the brand while staying true to its heritage. The introduction of the Rainbow check was met with widespread acclaim, demonstrating Burberry's ability to adapt to changing social values and remain relevant in the modern fashion landscape.
Riccardo Tisci and the Evolution of the Burberry Check
Riccardo Tisci's arrival at Burberry in 2018 marked a turning point for the brand. He brought a fresh perspective to the iconic label, injecting a dose of modernity and edginess while respecting its rich heritage. Tisci's creative vision extended to the Burberry check, which he reinterpreted in various ways throughout his tenure.
Beyond the Rainbow check, Tisci explored different scales, colors, and placements of the pattern, pushing the boundaries of the traditional design while maintaining its core identity. He incorporated the check into unexpected pieces, such as streetwear-inspired garments and avant-garde accessories. Tisci's innovative approach helped to revitalize the Burberry check, attracting a younger and more diverse audience to the brand.
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